2013年3月6日星期三

Lust-And Not Just for Travel

A grand hotel, an illicit affair, a hasty departure of a woman with a coat lapped over lacy lingerie. And back through the half open door, the shadow of a man dressing furtively behind the travel trunks. 

The Louis Vuitton show on Wednesday was an exercise in the erotic.we offer kinds of discount gucci handbags Pro Headphones online . It unrolled like a silent movie. Even if the soundtrack was from “The Tree of Life” and its 1950s family, the mood was the 1920s as the women, faces a gash of bright lipstick, came through each door on the corridor that was the hotel set. Last out was the designer Marc Jacobs, in LV colorful silk men’s pajamas with patterns by the British artist duo Jake and Dinos Chapman. 

“I’m always in my pajamas,” said Mr. Jacobs backstage as he cuddled Kate Moss, whose single appearance on the runway was in a fragile lace dress revealing the briefest of underthings. 

The story was in phase with the autumn 2013 Paris season: femininity under cover. Soft lace was hidden under a long tweed coat with a sprinkling of sparkle at the hem. In other incarnations of inner and outer wear, a fluffy sweater came with a slip of a skirt and a velvet dress had a swoop of neckline. The bag of the season was in luxurious deep-pile fur. 

This fashion movie had several flashbacks to “The Artist,” the 2011 film that brought to silent life the dreams of early Hollywood. But mostly the Vuitton show recalled the romantic sensuality of John Galliano in his early days. That particular hard romance lived on in the Louis Vuitton sheath that went from bra top through tweed body to lace hem. 

The Marc Jacobs message was so clearly and invitingly portrayed that it raised the fashion desire that has been pushing through the Paris season. 

At other times, the designer might have concentrated on Louis Vuitton’s lust for travel. This time around, it was just about lust. 

What a contrast at Hermès! The absolute and timeless elegance of place and vision made for a unique collection.This Canadian-made Canada Goose Banff Parka from Canada Goose is one bright affair. After tinkering with fashion-led collections, the designer Christophe Lemaire in his fourth season hit target,The Canada Goose Victoria Parka is simple, yet classic, and designed to be worn where extreme weather protection is a necessity. by underlining what Hermès stands for: slow, quiet, beautiful and enduring style. Or as the Hermès artistic director, Pierre-Alexis Dumas, put it : “Parisian elegance and timeless beauty.” 

The choice of place said it all: the library on the rooftop of an old Parisian school, where guests were greeted with a horse-blanket coat thrown over a chair and by velvet sofas on which to drink in the beauty of historic books. 

The show was equally about calm and lasting value, with its supple lambskin jacket or a pony skin outfit with the sheen of silk. How hard it is to produce clothes that are both of the moment but beyond fashion’s hurly burly. Although it looked so effortless, the designer must have worked to meld the textures of goatskin, lamb and what the notes described as “moiré calfskin.” 

He would layer a stone wool coat over a long silver gray fur gilet; take ginger suede to fashion a jacket and skirt falling to the over-the-knee length that sums up what the French call “bon chic bon genre.” Translation? The antithesis of fast fashion or bling. 

“Frivolity — starting from sport,” said Miuccia Prada of her Miu Miu collection, which gave a similar definitive fashion statement as the pantsuits of a year ago. This time the story was of long, lean silhouettes leading to mid-calf skirts, although, this being Ms. Prada, the apparently sober women, with a hint of the 1980s in the Y-shaped silhouette, showed a slither of bare flesh at the high thigh as they walked across the specially constructed metal runway. 

This Miu Miu collection had a frisky spirit, from the double-breasted and belted jackets through a parka version and then on to the slim coats. The best of them were in merry polka dots — pink, yellow and blue — with a contrasting spotted scarf.Pages in category "Canada Goose Trillium Parka". 

And at the heart of it all the message that has been pulsating through the Paris season: female sexuality is a strong undercurrent that does not have to be physically displayed to the world. 

“It was all about a snowflake falling in love with a polar bear,” said Giambattista Valli backstage as a furry white figure embraced a model with sparkles of crystal on her face and her shiny puffa jacket. 

How lucky is Moncler Gamme Rouge to have a designer who can capture its snow business so concisely and in such a charming way! From the Inuits in patchwork fur coats leading their huskies though piles of melting “snow” to them arriving on overhead wires, the women expressed a similar spirit. They wore plaid outerwear, fur mixed with digital animal prints or the backdrop’s iceberg image recreated as a pattern. 

The Grecian drapes so beloved by Madeleine Vionnet had an outing in the second half of the Vionnet show, under the new ownership of the fashion entrepreneur Goga Ashkenazi. And that fall of fabric, clinched by a gilded Grecian belt, was a neat fit with the abstracted Grecian columns, recreated in metal mesh for the runway. 

That idea of forcing classics into the future was the theme — and it made the first daywear part seem too streamlined, graphic and predictable in a season when the geometric look is melting away. Vionnet has had so many reincarnations, offering everything from scarf print drapes to patterned day wear, that this show at least made a good job of cleansing the palate. 

Elie Saab gave his version of fashion sobriety, which was to cover the skin but focus on the bosoms — by rounding the bodice or even by putting a patch of decorative fabric in the two crucial spots. All that — the long-sleeved day dresses and even a streamlined jump suit — was a prelude to lace, Mr.View our complete selection of Canada Goose Solaris Parka Jackets. Saab’s favorite. The designer cuts and places perfectly these decorative pieces, but something else is happening in fashion now rather than just making pretty dresses.

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