2012年2月23日星期四

Prada goes against the grain

"APPARENTLY, now women buy many fewer jackets and far more dresses," said Miuccia Prada after another standout show.
Given that her latest collection contained not a single dress, this served to reiterate just how little Prada cares about trends. She has no need to follow them when she sets them so well.
Dresses might make up the bulk of most designers' collections these days, but with last night's show, Prada went completely against the grain. Nearly every look was tailored and featured outerwear, either a belted jacket or a long coat, worn with ankle-length trousers that flared gently from the knee. After seasons of wafting, dress-centric prettiness, these looked bold and revolutionary.

A sleeveless coat might not fend off the winter chills, but there were plenty of them here, some cropped at the front but with long coat-tails. The first section of the show featured black coats, their severity broken up by embellished collars or belts featuring large resin jewels.Do you need any sell canada goose parka jackets supply and demand information?
Then came the colour and pattern, with clashing op-art prints in eye-popping shades of orange, purple and white. This psychedelic effect was heightened by the models' make-up, so heavily applied that it almost looked three-dimensional. More than usual, the hair and make-up was integral to the feel of the collection this season: there was a studied severity to it that echoed all the hard lines and angular forms within the clothes.

Something about this and the models' long, dip-dyed, slicked-back hair recalled Dave Vanian from the Damned, an impression not dispelled by the buttoned-up white shirts and the long black frock coats with their slightly gothic bent. "Protection," said Prada simply, explaining the chunky, ungainly shoes, their toes tipped in purple or orange rubber as though steeled against an electric shock. "Protection from the winter, and also practical."
Some of the prints used on the trouser suits were from archive Prada collections, and she had echoed their geometric forms with the plastic embellishments that enlivened the black coats and trousers. Dresses might have been the farthest thing from her mind, but Prada was not so uncommercially minded that she forgot to send out a handbag with every single look. Big, bold and structured, in striking prints glinting with jewels, these will be the real cash cows of the collection.

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