2012年10月29日星期一

A fine vintage: how vintage dressing works for any occasion

The shop In the brand-new Painted Black boutique in north London you might find a vintage Harvey Nichols ball-gown, a 1960s Mary Quant dress or a Mod parka. But the well-edited 1950s collection is the real star.

The look 'This outfit is made from three 1950s pieces: an Edward Abbott black jersey-crêpe dress, an Eriko three-quarter-length wool coat and a tall, black umbrella that reminds me of something Grace Kelly might have had if she'd been a New York career girl.

At a job interview you need to make an immediate impression, and the 1950s felt like the right era to choose from. It's stylish and professional without being too "Look at me!"

Clothes from the 1950s are about creating an idealised female figure and can emphasise boobs and bottoms - or help to create them if you're lacking (look for empire-line dresses and basque cuts if so).'

How to shop 'Mad Men has been a big influence on womenswear and it works particularly well for the office. Look for pussy-bow shirts, pencil skirts, high-waisted trouser suits and late-1950s bias-cut dresses.

Look out for jackets with peplums, which were a key part of Christian Dior's elegant New Look and are very in right now.

Don't forget about accessories. A leather "frame" handbag or a piece of brilliantly coloured costume jewellery can turn a simple tailored look into a real show-stopper.'

The Wedding: Marcelle Metta, founder of D&Me, London

The shop On the top floor of the contemporary designer boutique D&Me is a treasure-trove of luxurious vintage dresses, burlesque feather adornments and Victorian hair accessories. Four girls stitch away up here, too, creating pieces for Metta's own label, One Vintage, using pre-1930s lace and embellishments.

The look 'I believe that when buying vintage one should choose statement pieces. The gold-brocade trouser suit I've chosen is from the late 1950s, but it looks so current. It would be a standout piece for a wedding. It's a fabulously rich fabric but the lines are very simple, which is what makes it timeless. Gold can be very flattering for women. I'd expect a very confident woman to be wearing this outfit; a leader, not a follower, of trends.'

How to shop 'High-waisted trousers and tunics like this accentuate the hips, so they'd suit a tall, slim-built figure. Curvier women might want to look for lower-rise trousers and a longer leg.

Avoid buying long-sleeved silk garments for events such as weddings. Sweat patches will ruin any outfit, no matter how beautifully it all began.

A good vintage seller will have dry-cleaned the garments. But, if you're still worried, freeze your vintage pieces for a minimum of three days to kill any bacteria.'

The Date: Richard Mason, owner of Clobber, Bournemouth

The shop Clobber has been buying and selling vintage clothing for 20 years. It's one of the largest vintage shops on the south coast, with more than 50 rails of hand-picked clothing. A vast stock spanning many decades boasts designer labels including Biba, Ossie Clark, Christian Dior, YSL, Burberry, Louis Vuitton and Gucci.

The look 'This East-meets-West outfit would be great for a date at a gallery or art event. It's a late-1960s Radley Moss crêpe minidress with embroidered daisies anda 1920s Japanese silk, cord-fastening kimono with a screen-print design. I've accessorised it with a mid-1970s burgundy suede and leather duffel bag by Gucci.

None of it really goes together, but the mix of periods and cultures, the rich colours, all make it work. With vintage, if you're willing to take some risks and think outside of the box, you'll be amazed at the results.'

How to shop 'Don't be afraid to try longer lengths in the daytime. Bias cuts from the 1930s are always elegant on a narrow frame, and mid-length 1950s skirts are more flattering for a fuller figure.

Look out for dresses by Ossie Clark for the high-street brand Radley. They have Clark's trademark boho aesthetic, but with less luxurious fabrics than those he used in his main line, so they're more affordable.

Beware footwear from the 1960s and 1970s; they loved plastic, rubber and glue back then and as a result the shoes often fall apart.'

The Party: Wilma Mae Basta,View profiles and information for Specialized Cycling here. owner of The Gathering Goddess, London
The shop The Gathering Goddess is the latest addition to Notting Hill's great collection of vintage shops. Specialising in premium vintage from every era, it stocks pieces worn by Hollywood legends. Basta holds instore talks on fashion history and how to buy a vintage wedding dress.

The look 'The 1960s was a revolutionary period in fashion history and I love uncovering gems such as this Stanley Korshak two-toned metallic cocktail dress. I've accessorised it with a 1980s silver sequinned jacket - an elegant cover-up that would be useful with a number of outfits.

My approach to vintage is to choose timeless designs that can fit into a modern woman's wardrobe without making her look as if she is going to a fancy-dress party. An original design that's stood the test of time and still looks modern and unique can cost about the same as a premium high-street dress, of which there are thousands in circulation.'

How to shop 'Your vintage seller will be able to help you work out which shapes are best for you. Curvy women tend to suit shapes from the 1950s and 1970s, while slimmer ladies are best suited to the 1930s and 1940s.

The 1960s can suit everybody and it's a great decade for a party dress - they loved a bit of glitz back then. When shopping for vintage know your measurements (shoulders, bust, waist and hips) as the sizes never correspond to modern ones.'

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